What happens to waves when they become too steep?

What happens to waves when they become too steep?

• A. They break
• B. They travel faster
• C. They enhance
• D. They disappear

Answer: (A)

When waves become too steep, they break due to the instability of their structure. This breaking occurs when the wave's height exceeds a certain ratio to its wavelength, typically around 1:7. As the energy within the wave builds, the crest becomes increasingly steep, and once the steepness reaches a critical point, the wave can no longer support itself. This results in the top of the wave collapsing forward, creating a breaking wave. This phenomenon is essential for sailors and those involved in water sports to understand, as breaking waves can be dangerous and affects navigation and safety on the water. The other choices do not appropriately describe the behavior of waves in this context: waves do not travel faster when they steepen; they do not enhance in quality or size; and they certainly do not disappear simply due to steepness.

When waves become too steep, they break due to the instability of their structure. This breaking occurs when the wave's height exceeds a certain ratio to its wavelength, typically around 1:7. As the energy within the wave builds, the crest becomes increasingly steep, and once the steepness reaches a critical point, the wave can no longer support itself. This results in the top of the wave collapsing forward, creating a breaking wave.

This phenomenon is essential for sailors and those involved in water sports to understand, as breaking waves can be dangerous and affects navigation and safety on the water. The other choices do not appropriately describe the behavior of waves in this context: waves do not travel faster when they steepen; they do not enhance in quality or size; and they certainly do not disappear simply due to steepness.